丸カンにAG925・メーカーズマーク（菱形：St＋矢印＋D）・ミネルヴァの頭のホールマークの手打ち刻印が入り、リンクにはHERMSとMade in FRANC故障品(垃圾品)、問題商品、可能無法修理,請注意Eの手打ち刻印が確認できます。その後のレーザー※雷射相關產品(需進、出口文件)，因此無法協助購買。刻印に移行する直前の2001〜2003年に製作されたものと思われる、希少なヴィンテージシェーヌダンクルです。
コレクターが注目するポイント ① リンクの形状と質感 ヴィンテージのシェーヌダンクルは職人の手作業によってリンクがわずかに丸みを帯びており、現行品にはない温かみと独自のキャラクターを持ちます。現行品のリンクは機械生産による均一でシャープなエッジが特徴で、両者はその佇まいが明確に異なります。
② 手打ちとレーザー※雷射相關產品(需進、出口文件)，因此無法協助購買。の違い 本作が製造された2001〜2003年頃は、HERMS刻印・ホールマーク・925刻印すべてが職人による手打ちで施されていた最終期です。その後エルメスのシルバージュエリーはレーザー※雷射相關產品(需進、出口文件)，因此無法協助購買。刻印へと移行しており、手打ち刻印のピースは年々入手が難しくなっています。手打ち刻印ならではの深さと表情は、レーザー※雷射相關產品(需進、出口文件)，因此無法協助購買。では再現できない20世紀の職人技術の証です。
English Version ■ BRAND HERMS ■ ITEM c.20012003 — Margiela Era Chane d'Ancre GM 13-Link Sterling Silver Bracelet (Hand-struck hallmarks / STE.D Workshop / Vintage)
■ Material Sterling Silver 925 Weight: 71g / 2.5 oz ■ Color Silver ■ Size Total Length: approx. 21.5 cm / 8.5" ■ Accessories Original Herms jewellery box
■ Condition 8/10 — Good. Light patina and minor surface marks consistent with vintage silver jewellery. All hallmarks are present and intact — an important indicator of condition for a piece of this age.
■ Description Chane d'Ancre bracelets produced during Martin Margiela's tenure as Herms' womenswear designer — 1997 to 2003, widely known among collectors as the "Margiela era" — are among the most sought-after vintage Herms jewellery pieces, and this is one of them. The toggle ring carries hand-struck AG925, the maker's mark (lozenge: St + arrow + D / STE.D workshop), and the Minerva head assay hallmark; the links bear hand-struck HERMS and Made in France engravings. Based on these characteristics, this bracelet is believed to date from 20012003 — the final period of hand-struck hallmarking at Herms, just before the house transitioned to laser engraving. One of the pleasures of collecting vintage Herms silver from this era is precisely this variety: because all hallmarking was applied by hand, the position of the stamps, the type of maker's mark, and the presence or absence of country-of-origin markings vary from piece to piece — giving each example its own distinct character.
【Herms and the STE.D Workshop】 Herms does not cast all of its silver jewellery in-house. Instead, the house has long commissioned independent French silversmithing ateliers of the highest technical calibre to manufacture its pieces.
The lozenge-shaped maker's mark on this bracelet — St + arrow + D (STE.D) — is the hallmark of one such storied Parisian workshop, which produced Herms jewellery for many years. The secondary market for Chane d'Ancre bracelets is heavily affected by sophisticated counterfeits, which typically replicate the laser-engraved Herms logo but cannot reproduce the combination of a genuine hand-struck lozenge maker's mark and a separately applied Minerva hallmark. The presence of both on this piece is among the clearest possible indicators of authenticity.
【The Significance of Three Hallmarks in Perfect Combination】 French law requires that silver sold domestically cannot rely on numeric purity markings alone. Each piece must additionally receive the Minerva head — France's official state guarantee of silver purity — physically struck by the government assay office. This bracelet carries all three marks in full: the AG925 brand purity mark, the Minerva head state guarantee, and the STE.D workshop lozenge. This combination, with all three marks remaining clearly intact, places this example among the best-preserved pieces of its generation.
【The History of the Chane d'Ancre】 The Chane d'Ancre — French for "anchor chain" — is among the most enduring signatures in the history of Herms jewellery. First designed in 1938 by Robert Dumas-Herms, inspired by the anchor chains of Norman harbours, the design has remained a cornerstone of the Herms jewellery collection for over eight decades. Vintage vs. Current Production — Key Points Collectors Watch For
① Link Form and Character Vintage Chane d'Ancre bracelets are distinguished by their slightly rounder, handcrafted links — a quality that gives them a warmth and individuality not found in current production. Contemporary pieces feature more uniformly precise edges produced by machine, making the two generations visually and tactilely distinct.
② The Difference Between Hand-struck and Laser Hallmarking This bracelet was produced in the final window of hand-struck hallmarking at Herms. All marks were applied individually by hand. Herms subsequently transitioned to laser engraving, making hand-struck examples a closed and finite category. The depth and character of hand-applied marks cannot be replicated by laser, and their presence is both a period indicator and a mark of craft tradition that has entirely disappeared from modern production. This example retains all hallmarks in intact condition and is offered with its original Herms jewellery box, which further enhances collector value.
好評 (24) 
(0)
